Salzburg: Some Other Stuff

Okay, we’re getting down to the end of the Salzburg portion of our trip before we go back to Prague.  You know how I always have those little odds and ends of photos that don’t fit anywhere else but are fun, or odd, so I just put them together into one post . . .  well here they are.  Enjoy.

 

How does one explain a man carrying a yellow ear through a tunnel between 2 sections of the Christmas Market?  We looked at him from behind too and he’s just a short man wearing an apron and carrying an ear and that’s all. Hmmm….

 

Okay, these posts fascinated me. How did those cars in front of them get there? Turns out these posts work with transponders so that cars with special permits (like taxis) can use their transponder to electronically lower the post into the ground and then drive into this restricted area. Cool.

 

Not really sure exactly what this is but the driver was changing the tire on the other side.

 

I love this photo of a young mother in front of the Steiff Bear store explaining the stuffed animals to her baby.

 

Beautiful clock! (It’s a clock, right?)

 

 

Tells it like it is.

 

What a great idea!  This is a dog parking post where owners can “park” their dogs while they go into stores that don’t allow dogs.

 

Before we came to Salzburg, I told several people that this year was the 200th anniversary of the Christmas hymn, “Silent Night,” which was written and performed for the first time just outside of Salzburg. (Eyes glazed over.)  Because I knew there were several events planned around the country in celebration, I was surprised that this was the only mention we ever saw of it anywhere in Salzburg.

 

 

I see Salzburg has discovered the love locks that were so popular in Paris (Paris has since had most of them removed). These were very colorful and they even sold them in the souvenir stores!

 

Their electric street cars were painted (covered?) in red for the holidays and were so cute. (Oh look, it’s raining! Again!)

 

These horse-drawn carriages looked inviting but would probably have been more fun if it were snowing rather than raining.

Last but not least, here are 3 “doors” I thought were really interesting.

Salzburg: St. Sebastian’s Church & Cemetery

We stepped in out of the rain for an interesting visit to St. Sebastian’s Church and Cemetery which turned out to be very close to our hotel. The mostly Baroque church was rebuilt in the early 1800’s after a fire destroyed its interior.  It’s difficult to photograph as it’s tightly sandwiched between adjacent buildings. But behind the church are a fascinating cemetery and mausoleum.  The arcades lining the small cemetery include ornately designed tombs of some of Salzburg’s most notable residents. Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, arguably Salzburg’s most important ruler, occupies the mausoleum and the cemetery is also the final resting place of several members of the Mozart family (but not Mozart himself who is buried in Vienna).

 

The magnificent Rococo portal to St. Sebastian’s Church.

 

The inside of the mostly Baroque St. Sebastian Church. The high altar is adorned by a wonderful Madonna with Child from the year 1611.

 

The church is the green-roofed building behind the cemetery arcade. It was originally built between 1505 and 1512 but it was rebuilt in the 18th century and then again in the early 19th century after a devastating interior fire.  The beautiful trees in the cemetery were very old and huge!

 

This mausoleum is the final resting place of Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau.

 

This is the Mozart plot: Mozart’s father, Mozart’s wife, and Mozart’s wife’s 2nd husband.

 

The four sides of the small cemetery are lined by these fascinating arcades. Some of the plaques are very, very old while several plaques on the arcade posts are from as recent as last year.

 

The cemetery is clearly well maintained because most of the tombstones like this one were in amazing condition considering their age.

 

I thought this cherub sculpture in one of the arcades was adorable.

Salzburg: The Music

A large part of Salzburg’s identity is music-related.  For starters, Mozart seems to be everywhere.  His face beams from store windows and the Mozart line of chocolates is delicious and seemingly in every shop.  You can tour the house where he was born and another residence where he lived while working in Salzburg.  And you could attend multiple concerts every day featuring the music of Mozart and his contemporaries.  There are Mozart Concert Halls and Mozart Balls.  There are even huge annual music festivals here throughout the year.

And then there’s The Sound of Music.  There’s a lovely theater where you can see a live production (in German) of The Sound of Music.  Many tours are based on The Sound of Music showcasing either sites from the original story or the filming locations for the 1965 movie.

We attended 2 music concerts while we were in Salzburg which gave us evenings of wonderful music as well as access to unique Salzburg locations.  The first concert was held in Salzburg’s hilltop medieval fortress.  The tour included dinner in the fortress restaurant before the concert and then a string quintet that performed in a nearby music hall.  I’ve included a couple of related photos but although the evening performance gave us great views from the fortress, night-time photos don’t do it justice.

The second concert was in the gorgeous baroque style Marble Hall in the Mirabell Palace.  Built in 1606, the Palace now houses the offices of Salzburg’s mayor and city government.  The Marble Hall is used for weddings, awards ceremonies, and the regular music concerts.

This is probably the most popular photo of Mozart, and we saw it many places.

 

The beautiful house where Mozart was born.

 

Mozart standing in front of one of “his” candy shops.

 

A whole passel of adorable Mozarts in a gift shop.

 

Our first concert and dinner were in the Salzburg fortress which looms high above the city.  Construction of the fortress began in 1077 and continued over the next several centuries.

 

 

The restaurant in the fortress. A lovely old restaurant with beautiful views of the city.

 

The medieval hall with vaulted ceilings in the fortress where the concert took place.

 

The theatre where the live production of the Sound of Music takes place.

 

An ad for the Sound of Music live production.

 

The gardens of the Mirabell Palace where part of the Sound of Music took place. (This is where they sang do-re-me.)

 

Entrance to the gardens at the Mirabell Palace with the Palace shown in the back.  Love the trees.

 

Lots of interesting Italian-looking statues in the Mirabell Gardens.

 

Front of the Mirabell Palace seen at night.

 

The marble staircase up to the 2nd floor in the Mirabell Palace where the music concert took place.

 

One of the beautiful walls in the Marble Hall in the Mirabell Palace where the music concert took place. The room is very tall so is difficult to photograph.

 

The Marble Hall where the musical group performed. Period instruments included a beautiful harpsichord.

Salzburg: Decorating for Christmas

Salzburg likes to decorate for Christmas, making the festivities even more special.  Store fronts and windows are all decked out, albeit sometimes understated, but each beautiful in their own way.  Below are some of the decorations we noticed during our walks around town.

These were some of a very few decorations in our hotel. When I told the woman at reception that I would like to take them home with me, she smiled sweetly and said, “sure, fine.” And I do believe she meant it.

 

 

I don’t know . . . maybe these aren’t even Christmas decorations?

 

 

Like the way they built it around their existing sign.

 

We saw lots of Nativity Scenes in shops and I found fascinating the variety of styles we saw. I’ve included just a few here.

 

 

 

 

Our hotel suggested I take my dead computer to the electronics store at Europark, “one of Europe’s most beautiful shopping centers.”  With 130 stores and restaurants and 10.5 million visitors annually, this place is amazing.  And closed on Sundays!  Below are a few photos I took while I was there.

This reindeer is suspended in mid-air. His metal wire frame is covered in tiny white lights and there are different sizes and colors of balls inside of him. A little strange but gorgeous.

These chandelier-styled lights were beautiful too. And huge.

 

Love these interesting, light-encrusted trees also suspended from the ceiling above the second level.

 

In the mall’s walkways are lots of kiosks that are actually high-quality Christmas market stalls. In this area there are 4 stalls attached together.

Below are just a few last interesting windows, etc., we saw that appeared to be decorated for the holidays..

Cool.

 

Weird! (Do you think maybe that dress needs some water? You know how risky dress fires can be this time of the year.)

 

Love this antique sleigh all decorated for Christmas.

 

Great candy store, lots of Mozart candy. And on the table in front are dried fruits.

 

Okay, now this is just weird!

 

Great pastry store.

 

Wow, a lot of work . . . and suckers . . . went into this cute window display!

 

Salzburg: A Beautiful City

Salzburg is a lovely little city wrapped around the banks of the Salzach River with a population of only 150,000 people (and 44 churches!).  That means that the city is very walkable, especially the Old Town area which is the most scenic and historically interesting part.  In the 16th Century, Salzburg’s forefathers wanted to transform Salzburg into a mini-Rome, which helps explain why the City’s architecture has such an Italian feel – and lots of Italian restaurants.  And of course two of the major highlights of Salzburg are the fact that Mozart was from this area, and the Von Trapp family also lived here so The Sound of Music still plays a big part in tourism here.

After spending a week in the rain in Salzburg, I think we’ve figured out that perhaps winter isn’t when Salzburg puts on its best face, especially if there’s no beautiful snow.  But seeing how good Salzburg looks in the wintertime gives us a glimpse of how it surely must sparkle in the summertime.

 

Photo taken from the rolled down window of a cab while speeding across the bridge in the rain . One of my favorites.

 

Many of the buildings are attached directly to the cliffs behind them. Not something you usually see.

 

More buildings attached directly to the cliffs behind them. (This was originally a place where they watered the horses.) (Love the covered statue!)

 

Another building shaped irregularly in the back in order to accommodate attaching to the wall behind.

 

 

 

Love the way the clouds hang low over the valleys.

 

On top is the city’s walled fortress. Below is the Old Town area.

 

One of the aristocrats in the 17th century built this beautiful palace and the manmade lake it’s located on.

 

The beautiful view across the manmade lake from the palace (see previous photo).

 

 

 

 

Stately old hotel along the river.

Salzburg: THE Christmas Markets

A small Christmas Market was located about 3 blocks from our Salzburg hotel, but the big market was across the river in Old Town, an easy 15-20 minute walk from our hotel.  Even hiking in the rain, we managed to visit them a couple of times during the week we were there.  The Old Town Christmas Market  had almost 100 stalls running through the historic area and they were fabulous.  Comparing the Prague and Salzburg markets, I’d say the Salzburg markets were definitely better, although in general they were also a bit more expensive.

We were fascinated by the authentic dress of this wayfarer couple (she is almost entirely hidden in front of him) who had stopped to chat with a coffee vendor.
This tired little Santa with his pretzel looked particularly lifelike with his heaving chest and loud snoring.

 

This stall had an especially nice selection of local Mozart candies and pretzels.

 

Live pine trees, especially these mini ones that fit in small apartments, are popular sellers at the markets as well as wreaths like these fragrant ones made of fresh local herbs, pine cones and berries.

 

European Christmas decorations tend to favor natural materials, as seen above.

 

Beautiful Pichuberries are everywhere, Pam.  Yum!  These were used to garnish fruit bars at the Christmas Markets. We even saw them on the breakfast buffet in our hotel.

 

Beautiful miniature hand-made lighted houses and Austrian cow bells.

 

The market included an ice rink and it got a whole lot more use during the evening than during the day. Notice the companion bear giving confidence to a new skater.

 

A small round-up of  cute snowmen . . .

 

. . . followed closely by an adorable herd of reindeer & friends.

 

Every market has a unique nativity scene hidden somewhere in its midst.

 

This stall had an amazing collection of yummy local sausages and cheeses.

Traveling to Salzburg

Today we took the train to Salzburg.  We’ll be in Salzburg for a week and then we’ll go back to Prague for a few days.  We left from the huge Prague Train Station and switched trains in Linz.  The entire travel time was 5 1/2 hours.  The trains are beautiful in Europe,  well maintained,  very crowded and very fast.   As we left our hotel for the train station, it began to snow.  You know, those great big floaty snowflakes that Chuck’s been pining for.  And it snowed most of the way to the Austrian border.  Places in Austria had snow already but the day was mostly sunny by the time we got that far.  But it was beautiful in the Czech Republic while it lasted.

It’s hard to get photos from an fast-moving train. First of all the windows are always dirty. And today we added large ice chunks to the windows that were not very attractive when photographed. And then there’s all those trees that weren’t there when you took the photo but shazam! they’re in the photo when you’re done! Here are a few of my best efforts. I especially like the fact that they all look like they’re in black and white and the last ones that show the bleakness of winter.

 

This wasn’t our train but one that was in the station while we were waiting for ours. While this picture certainly doesn’t capture the controlled chaos of the train station, if you look really close, you can see it’s snowing.

 

 

 

Prague: Our Night Cruise

We took a dinner cruise on the Vltava River in a glass-domed boat simply because we had taken one in Budapest when we were there a couple of years ago and the lighted buildings reflected on the river were gorgeous. Prague’s waterfront is not quite as impressive at night and it turned out to be even more difficult to photograph. First of all, it rained during most of the trip and rain on a glass domed roof does not make for great photos. And it’s dark out, and the boat is moving. So between both of us, we managed to get a whopping 3 photos! And we didn’t even think to get a photo of the boat. Then at one point during the cruise, the boat hit a rock wall on one side and we realized we were also only a couple of feet from the opposite wall. And then we sat there for quite some time. We thought we were stranded! Then the walls next to the boat started to get shorter and we discovered that without our realizing it, we had gotten into river locks and once the water reached a certain height, we moved on again. We didn’t know there were locks in this area. Now we need to check out that area in the daylight and see what’s up with that.

Here are the only 3 photos we got that were worth sharing.

We think this is the building we’ve heard referred to as the Dancing House. When we go back to Prague next week, we want to learn more about this fascinating building.

 

We assume this building with the rabbit ears is some kind of a church. We’d like to get to see this building in the daylight too.

 

And we have no idea what this domed building is but it was very striking in the night sky.

Prague: The Church of St. Nicholas

The Church of St. Nicholas is the most famous Baroque church in Prague, and a superb example of High Baroque architeture. It’s the most prominent and distinctive landmark in the Lesser Town Square. Taking approximately 100 years to build, it was completed in the mid 1600’s. It’s now one of the most valuable Baroque buildings north of the Alps and has the tallest interior in Prague. Upon entering, one is almost overwhelmed by the interior size of this church.

 

The silhouette of St. Nicholas Church can be seen for miles but the buildings are so dense here that you can almost be standing right next to it and miss it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prague: Our Neighborhood

We’re staying right next to the Charles Bridge and it’s a very scenic, fun neighborhood full of beautiful buildings and lots of restaurants and really nice craft and gift shops.  Actually we’re on an island with the river on one side and a canal on the other but then it’s attached to the mainland by a little piece of land at either end of the island.  Here’s some of what we’ve seen.

 

In front of our hotel is a little tree-lined plaza. At one end of the plaza is the world’s smallest Christmas market: probably no more than 10 or so booths.

 

This gorgeous tree stands at the end of the mini Christmas market right near the Nativity scene.

 

At one end is this Nativity scene. Yep, kinda strange.

 

Next to the Nativity scene is a small group of 3 live animals. And in front, the 3 wise men wander around. (I guess the other 2 were on a break.)

 

Nice shops, just not very many.

 

Of course there was a food shop that made the whole area smell divine because they were roasting part of a pig. We shared a huge sausage sandwich and it was delicious.

 

There are lots of interesting cars that are part of sightseeing tours.

 

We later saw a whole line of cars like this one that were transporting a tour group.

 

I love this car with its newly bought Christmas tree on the top.

 

One of the canals near our hotel.

 

I love this part of the canal with it’s old mill.

 

Okay, how weird is this Santa!

 

I love the architecture of the old buildings here. And unlike in a lot of the old European cities, the buildings for the most part are very clean.

 

Great marionette shop. Check out those clever letters!

 

This cool artwork was next to the door outside of the marionette shop.

 

We went into this little streetside bakery with outside seating .. . .

 

. . . and had a cup of mulled wine and the world’s best chocolate croissant!

 

We discovered an area down by the river where the swans hang out. Actually it’s only one of many places where they hang out. And you know how much I like swans.

 

Swans are so photogenic. And loud.

 

These swans look even better out in the middle of the river where the water is more dappled.
Does this look comfortable?
These guys are very friendly and laid-back. And not at all shy.

I saved the best photo for last. Only as a service to Pam, I’ve made it a point to look for some of the sculptures by David Cerny, the Czech Republic’s most original contemporary artist. We’re still looking for his babies crawling up the TV tower and we’ll have to continue that search when we come back next week. And there are lots of other we would like to see but unfortunately they’re not all in one location. However we were able to find his sculpture called “Piss” ouside of the Franz Kafka Museum which turned out to be near our hotel. Just as a point of information, the men’s middle sections rotate to the left and then back to the right, etc.  And they are standing in a shallow pool the shape of the Czech Republic. And I’ve read somewhere that you can send a text and one of the men will spell out your message in the water, although we didn’t see that happen and never did figure out exactly how that might work.

“Piss” by David Cerny.